A Bordeaux Pilgrimage

30Jul07

Published Sept/Oct 2008 by intravelmag.com

For a wine amateur, a trip to the Bordeaux region is a great way to learn about viticulture the experiential way.

On a recent trip through southern France, I discovered that affordable, enriching courses and excursions to prestigious wine estates in the area are readily available, and that the charming and picturesque city of Bordeaux, perfectly located in the heart of this wine region, offers countless additional attractions to make it a real holiday.

There is the abundance of 18th century architecture, the various monuments that are listed as World Heritage sites by Unesco, the impressive waterfront and quays along the Garonne river, the superb cuisine with fresh fish and seafood from the nearby Atlantic Ocean, the lively cultural agenda, and last but not least, the ultramodern transport system –  the first tram network to introduce groundlevel power supply – to cover it all.

A highly animated 2 hour-long introductory wine-tasting course at L’Ecole du Vin de Bordeaux (in English or French), proves to be the perfect preparation for the vineyard explorations to follow. With the help of maps, we learn about the different grape varieties, their respective regions, the importance of their terroir, the process of wine making, and the unique wines that are produced after carefully blending the different varieties such as the red Médoc and Graves, the famous Saint-Emilion and Côtes wines, the dry white Sauvignon Blanc from the Entre-deux-Mers area east of Bordeaux, and the sweet white wines from the south, like the famous Sauternes.

The highlight of the course is, without any doubt, the wine tasting itself. As real connaisseurs, we hold the glass by the stem, examine the colour, and sniff for a first impression. Then we take a sip and swish the wine around the mouth before swallowing, in order to saturate the taste buds. Finally, after swirling the wine carefully around and to the sides of the glass to draw in some air, we take a fuller drink for a total impression and a longer sensation on the palate. By the time we have savoured a dry white wine, two red wines, and a sweet dessert wine, we feel ready to embark on our next day’s exploration of some of the 9.000 vineyards estates in the Bordeaux region, the second largest wine-growing area in the world.

Our first wine tasting trip brings us to the left bank of the Gironde estuary, the Médoc region, where the terroir is said to be outstanding. The well-drained soil is composed of gravel, sandy stone, and pebbles, and the moderate climate with its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean ensures warm summers and sunny autumns. Driving through a gently undulating landscape and along the estuary with its distinct fishermen’s huts, the cabanes, we pass the pretty wine towns of Margaux, Listrac, Moulis, Pauillac, St. Estèphe, and St. Julien. In the heart of the Médoc we visit two wine châteaux: Le domaine de Lanassan, since 1793 a major wine producer with 260 hectares, and Château Maucaillou, built in 1875, with 2175 acres of vineyards.

In the wine processing areas of the estates, we learn about the basics of winemaking: from destemming, crushing, and maceration, to alcoholic fermentation, devatting, and racking. Then we are led to the temperature-controlled vats of stainless steel as well as the oak barrels, all new and made in France (Limoges), in which the wine will age for about 16 months. Although at that point ready for sale, bottles still have to lie down for another couple of years, as most Médoc wines are usually only drinkable after they have aged considerably. In each estate we taste two different red wines, all consisting of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot varieties. The full-bodied wines from Lanessan are Crus Bourgois Supérieurs of 1998 and 1999, whereas the deep-coloured reds at Maucaillou are a lit bit younger and fruitier.

The following day we are on tour in the famous Saint-Emilion area, 40 km north-east of Bordeaux, and visit Château Haute-Sarpe and Château Beau-Séjour. Here, on the right bank of the river Dordogne, the soil is composed of limestone, sand, and little gravel, and the major grape is the Merlot, most often blended with Cabernet Franc, which ripens about ten days later than the Merlot, helped by the heat of the stones under the vines. After a perfect lunch at Haute-Sarpe, accompanied by two rich grands crus classés from the Château, it is time to explore the romantic town of Saint-Emilion with its cobble-stoned and curvy alleys, steeped in history.

As the story goes, the hermit Saint Emilion settled here in the 8th century to live a reclusive life in a cave on a limestone hill, now the site of a monolithic church. Over time, the site grew into a focal point of religious life and pilgrimage, eventually leading to the expansion of the town in the Middle Ages. But it was not until the mid-1800’s that Saint-Emilion’s wine trade, and subsequently its reputation, really started to grow. Since 1999, Saint-Emilion and its surrounding vineyards have been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the first time in history that a winegrowing area has received such a recognition.

As is the case with Bordeaux, Saint-Emilion is not only about wine. There are architectural treasures such as Romanesque churches, underground tunnels and catacombs. Hikers and bikers can enjoy a series of enchanting trails meandering through the vineyards and connecting the various wine towns in the region. And when you have a sweet tooth, you can stock up on the unsurpassed, mouth-watering macaroons of Madame Blanchez, whose recipe has remained the same since the nuns launched it in 1620.

Courses

• L’Ecole du Vin de Bordeaux, 1 cours du XXX juillet, 33075 Bordeaux, Tel. (33) (0)5 56 00 22 85.  From a 2 hr. introductory course at 22 euros, to 3-day weekend courses between 450 and 900 euros, hotel and meals included.
• L’Ecole du Bordeaux, 7 rue du Chateau Trompette, 33000 Bordeaux, Tel. (33) (0)5 56 90 91 92. Luxury wine tasting in 17th century château in Médoc plus culinary classes at Chapon Fin Restaurant, Bordeaux, 5 days 1185 euros, meals and hotel included.
• The Bordeaux Wine Experience, 1 chemin de Meydieu, 33360 Lafresne, Bordeaux, Tel. (33) (0)5 56 20 64 12. A week-long course plus excursions, with stay in 17th century château (hosts are certified winemasters) from 4495$US, all inclusive.
• Vinothérapie (red wine baths and massage) is offered at Les Sources de Caudalie, chemin de Smith Haut-Lafitte, 33650 Bordeaux, Tel. (33) (0)5 57 83 83 83. From 315 euros for 2 days to 918 euros for 6 days; wine tasting and culinary courses also  available.
• Daily wine tasting excursions are organized by l’Office de Tourisme de Bordeaux, 12 cours du XXX juillet, 33080 Bordeaux, Tel. (33) (0)5 56 00 66 00. 1/2 Day tours: 29 euros, full day tours (lunch with wine at château included): 82 euros.

Where to Stay

• Hotel de Normandie, 7 cours du XXX juillet, 33000 Bordeaux, Tel. (33) (0)5 56 52 16 80. From 80 – 230 euros.
• Hotel Majestic, 2 rue de Condé, 33000 Bordeaux, Tel. (33) (0)5 56 52 60 44. From 75 – 200 euros.
• Hotel Les 4 Soeurs, 6 cours du XXX juillet, 33000 Bordeaux, Tel. (33) (0)5 57 81 19 20. From 75 euros.
• Citea Bordeaux, 1 bis rue Jean Renaud Dandicolle, 33000 Bordeaux, Tel. (33) (0)5 56 56 1800. From 53 euros (kitchenette included). 

Where to Eat

There are numerous excellent places for everyone’s taste and budget, from brasseries and bistrots like Café Rohan on place Pey-Berland and Terrasse Saint-Pierre at place Saint-Pierre, to classy restaurants such as Chez Dubern on allées de Tourny (particularly seafood) or the legendary Chapon Fin on rue de Montesquieu. 

For best and affordable seafood: Chez Philippe, 1 place du Parlament, Tel. 05 56 81 83 15; La Boîte à Huîtres (oysters), 8 rue de la Vieille Tour, Tel. 05 56 81 64 97; and Le Banc d’Arguin, 14 rue des Bahutiers, Tel. 05-56-44-51-72.

Transportation

• From the airport: A navette (Jet Bus) leaves every 45 min. from Mérignac airport to downtown Bordeaux, and stops both at place Gambetta and  Saint-Jean railway station.
• Downtown Bordeaux: Taxis charge 10 euros. The modern and comfortable tram will cost 1.30 euro per ride, transfers allowed (or you can buy a more advantageous strip of 5 rides).

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