Enchanting Yemen

09Mar08

Published Sept/Oct 2008 by intravelmag.com

Still Largely Untouched by Tourism

“I taught myself as a kid” explains our trekking guide Abdullah, when we prudently inquire about his credentials in the face of a steep mountain ahead of us. “I tried this stone, and that rock, and every time I ventured a little bit farther. By now, I know that mountain inside out” Abdullah is the perfect example of how Yemen has been approaching its slowly growing influx of tourists so far: self-taught, and with simple means.

We are in the Manakha area, about a 2 1/2 hr. drive from Yemen’s bewitching capital Sana’a with its beautifully decorated facades and windows, its narrow streets overflowing with sounds of street vendors, produce sellers, honking cars, and mosques’ calls to prayer, and not to forget, its colourful, always buzzing souks (markets) with their particular smells of spices and their numerous qat, silver, and jambiya (traditional dagger) sellers who always have a welcoming “as-salaam alaikum” for those passing by.

Manakha, in the Haraz mountains, is the antidote of Sana’a’s hustle and bustle: extremely peaceful and serene, with crisp air, clear and spectacular vistas, and small, picture-perfect villages perching over a cliff, towering above a mountain summit, or glued against a giant rock. On our hikes, we now and then pass friendly villagers who undisturbed go about their daily chores, as has probably been done for centuries: veiled women doing their laundry and fetching water at a trickling mountain stream; white-robed men ploughing their small terraced pieces of land or travelling by donkey to the market to buy their indispensable qat; and children herding goats or taking care of each other.

When the people happen to be home, we are often treated on a pot of tea, or invited inside the guestroom to share their food:salta, a tasty vegetable dip, or bint as sahin, a delicious mix of bread and honey. At night, we stay in a simple funduq (inn) where there is always room for the unexpected guest. If there are not enough beds available, the inn keeper simply throws some mattresses and blankets on the floor. And who cares anyway, when Arabic dance and song in the mafraj (reception room) keeps everybody on their feet until the wee hours?

Manakha lies on the South-Western loop that also includes the ancient cities of Taiz, Ibb, Jibla, Kaukabam, and Thula. Often strategically built on top of a rock plateau or mountain range, they offer many dramatic views and points of historic and cultural interest, ranging from the Queen Arwa mosque in Jibla to the fascinating traditional markets in and around Taiz, where unveiled women proudly display their colourful dresses.

We also follow the North-Eastern route to Marib, another ancient city that still boasts remnants of a more than 3000 years old civilization, and onwards through the vast desert and the fertile, picturesque Hadramaut and Doan wadis (river valleys), to the striking city of Shibam, the “Manhattan of the desert”, grown skyward up to eight levels high, as the soil for a good foundation is limited. When we finally reach the Gulf of Aden, we eat fresh fish just hours after the many blue fishing boats have brought their catch of the day into the harbour of Al-Mukalla with its white-plastered houses. 

Clearly, Arabia Felix, as Yemen was named by Roman invaders at the time that their frankincense trade was booming, has incredible potential for a well-developed tourist industry, definitely worthy of international acclaim. Combine the varied topography – also including a more than 2000 km. coastline with great diving potential, and at least 160 islands of which magical Socotra with its extremely rare flora and fauna is the most famous – with the centuries-old architectural treasures and traditions, and fantastic weather all year round, and one has the perfect recipe for a flourishing tourist industry. So far, however, Yemen has not been able to maximize on that potential like other Middle Eastern countries such as Jordan and Egypt have done. One possible explanation is the fact that Yemen currently suffers from a negative image on an international level, not only because of civil unrest in the far North, but also due to recent terrorist attacks in the Marib area. Deeply concerned about this ever happening again, authorities have since then strengthened their tourist police force in the hope of eliminating any security risks.

It is also no secret that Yemen, with half of the population younger than 15 years old and 43% of people living under the 3$ a day poverty line, lacks a strong infrastructure for general services and utilities, as well as financial resources to boost and maintain a healthy tourist industry. And thirdly, there is still a huge lack of proper tourist information and well-trained personnel in travel agencies, hotels, and restaurants who can acutely tune into what is internationally expected. Maps, guide books, and folders on destinations of particular interest are still scarce, and when they do exist, they are often poorly translated or not detailed enough. Both the Minister of Tourism and the movers and shakers of Yemen’s tourism industry have recently promised many innovative measures to remedy those shortcomings, such as more internationally oriented hotels, more frequent flights, proper training for personnel, and more accurate information.

This is certainly good news for Yemen’s national income and for the more spoiled traveller. But for those who would like to experience this magnificent former kingdom of the Queen of Sheba just as it has been for the past centuries, there may be an urgency to visit Yemen rather sooner than later, before the consequences – more tourists, jewelry stalls, pop vendors, and kids begging for pens, candies, and money – may possibly infiltrate Yemen’s charm and authenticity. These travellers will, at least if they are prepared to turn a blind eye to Yemen’s current imperfections, certainly be mesmerized by its unique architecture, by its cultural and geographical wonders, and by its romantic ambience straight out of “Thousand and One Nights”. They will also be warmly welcomed by incredibly hospitable people who will eagerly greet them with some words of English, gladly help them find their way through the sometimes confusing mazes of narrow streets, and often invite them into their modest homes.

Transport

Various airlines connect Sana’a with the rest of the world. Qatar flies from Sana’a via Doha to London; Turkish Airlines has direct flights between Sana’a and Istanbul. A visa is needed for entry to Yemen and can be purchased upon arrival.

By far the best travel option outside Sana’a is hiring a 4×4 with driver through a reliable Yemeni tour operator. Not only can independent travel by local transport be very complicated and uncomfortable, but tour companies can also arrange for the necessary travel permits and police escorts in potentially “dangerous” zones, as well as provide indispensable know-how on itineraries, distances, proper roads in remote areas, and negotiate cheaper rates in restaurants and hotels.

Recommended travel agencies:

• Universal Group Yemen, www.utcyemen.com, tel. 967-1-440-305
• Yemen Explorers, www.yemen-explorers.com, tel. 967-1-404-838 (also customized and women tours)
• Yemeni Dreams, www.yemeni-dreams.com, tel. 967-1-514-028 (also adventure and ecotours)

Where to Stay in Old Sana’a

• Burj-al-salam Hotel, www.burjalsalam.com, tel. 967-1-483-333, from 59$ for comfortable single with bathroom
• Arabia Felix Tourist Hotel, arabiafelix.fr, tel. 967-1-287-330, from 28$ for clean & simple single with bathroom
• Daoud Hotel, tel. 967-1-287-270, from 20$ for basic single with shared bathroom

Breakfast is always included in Yemeni hotels.

Where to Stay in the Manakha Area

• Funduq Aqil, tel. 967-1-460-124, from 20$ for basic single with bathroom, a lavish dinner with dance and music included. Treks range from half a day to a week and can be arranged through the funduq.

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Tags: middle-east, yemen