Holland’s Best Kept Secrets

16Oct09

Published Jan/Feb 2009 by intravelmag.com

Unusual homes away from home in Friesland and Drenthe’s countryside

Ever dreamed of sleeping in a lighthouse, a harbor crane or a lifeboat? With all the comforts of home, and much more? It is all possible in the picturesque harbour of Harlingen, a previous Viking settlement in the northern province of Friesland, only a one and a half hour – drive away from Amsterdam. As you enter this charming fishing town, you are immediately transported to a different world: numerous sail and fishing boats, picture-perfect canals and inner harbors, well-preserved gabled houses, narrow cobbled lanes and bridges, and locals who still make time for friendly chats and daily groceries.

Imagine spending the night in your very own lighthouse in this quaint setting! After you climb to the top of the stairs, there is a real sense of being the official lighthouse keeper as you watch the brown sails coming and going, and listen to the weather forecast and messages coming in over the marine telephone from the ships at sea. With bright weather, you can venture onto the fenced wrap-around deck, and at night you will be surrounded by the many lights from the town and harbor below. And there is more: in the morning, you can expect a little pampering from the local baker who brings you fresh rolls straight from his oven!

The restored harbor crane, once used to load and unload ship cargos, is just a hop, a skip and a jump away from the lighthouse. In the old days, there were 10 of them, but more advanced technology made them obsolete over time. Visionary Gosse Beerda stepped in just in time to save the last crane from ending up in the junkyard, and turned it into a mini-hotel for two instead. While outwardly maintaining its original look, the interior has been completely renovated. The latest gadgets to ensure a comfortable stay above ground include designer furniture, a touch screen to manage the lights and high-tech equipment, and a huge shower for two.

By way of two narrow elevators, you will be transported to the cabin of the crane. There, operating the driver’s handle, you can turn the upper part of the crane in any direction you like. Or you can step out on the little terrace – with firm railing -, and watch the harbor scene and sunset from above, while sipping champagne from the well-equipped mini-bar. During your stay, a lavish breakfast will be delivered by the baker himself.

For water lovers, the life boat Lilla Marras, moored in the picturesque inner harbor opposite City Hall, is an excellent alternative. Its wooden bathtub for two is cozy and inviting, and so is the heart-shaped designer bed in the saloon. From the small foredeck you have a magnificent view of the many restored gables of Harlingen. And if some action on the water appeals to you, the captain is more than willing to navigate this nautical monument for a couple of hours through the harbor and over the Wadden Sea. Although the lifeboat includes a small kitchen, why not consider one of the nearby fish restaurants in town and try the catch of the day for a truly memorable evening of dining?

 

There is plenty to do in and around Harlingen besides gazing at its town and harbor scene. You can visit the quaint islands of Vlieland and Terschelling by ferry, rent a skipper to guide you through the harbor and the Wadden Sea, or do some sailing yourself. Especially worth mentioning is the bruine vloot (brown fleet), a collection of 75 traditional sailing ships which you can rent for one or more days. Or, if you prefer to stay on shore, there are several interesting museums and art galleries in town and in the neighboring villages, since the Frisian pottery, tiles, and folk art are world-famous. During the summer, you will encounter various special celebrations, of which the Harlinger Fishery Days (its 50th anniversary will be held from Aug. 26 to 29, ’09) with its many music, dance, arts, folklore, and sports events are the absolute highlight of the season.

If you would like to make a side trip to a completely different scenery and you look for an opportunity to stretch your legs, the province of Drenthe, south east of Friesland, is a true eldorado for hikers and bikers. There are many routes through tranquil and diverse landscape where you will find woods with centuries-old trees, ponds and streams, pastures with sheep herds, and megaliths older than Stonehenge. At the end of the day, you can find refuge in historical thatched-roofed farmhouses turned guesthouses, beautifully restored with their old charm carefully preserved. One such stylish gem is ‘t Olde Hof in the small town of Westervelde, also offering a tenniscourt, a natural pool, a sauna, and bicycles to its guests. If you look for total privacy, you may ask for their romantic and intimate garden house, the Venhuis, with its waterside terrace, fire place, and hot tub in the middle of the reed. For a first-class dinner, head for the nearby De Jufferen Lunsingh, another renovated 18th century farmhouse that once belonged to the five free-spirited Lunsingh spinsters.

When you return to ‘t Olde Hof later in the evening, your hostess Dirkje Heida will, in the meantime, have lit the oil lamps to welcome you back to her guesthouse and guide you safely to your comfortable sleeping quarters. Or…. to the tub, for a relaxing dip in the steaming water before finally calling it a night.

Contact Information

• De Vuurtoren (Lighthouse), Havenkraan (Harbor crane), and Reddingsboot (Life boat), VVV Harlingen, Noorderhaven, tel. 011 31 515 540550, www.vuurtoren-harlingen.nl, info@dromenaanzee.nl; from 319 E per night. Advance booking essential!
• Traditional sailing ships of “De Bruine Vloot” with sleeping facilities for 7-34 p, www.rederij-vooruit.nl or www.zeilcharter.nl
• ‘t Olde Hof, Olde Hofweg 5-7, 9337 TD Westervelde, Drenthe, tel. 011 31 592 612733, www.oldehof.nl, info@oldehof.nl; from 110 E per night during weekdays to 500 E for 2 nights in the “Venhuis”.

Filed under: articles   |  Leave a Comment